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UNDERSTANDING YOUR LEATHER AND SUEDE GARMENTS
Prepared by the Better Business Bureau
The increased consumer demand for leathers and suedes had underscored the need for accurate information for the general public, drycleaners, retailers, and manufacturers concerning all types of leathers. For this reason, we have designed this educational information. Our purpose is not to maximize or minimized any problems, but rather to advise of their existence.
Most leather and suede garments will clean beautifully when processed by a professional suede and leather cleaner. However, there are some exceptions, due to the quality and/or condition of the skins.
COLOR CHANGES
Leathers and suedes which have been processed and refinished occasionally vary in color and finish from the original garment for one or more of the following reasons:
1. BASIC DYE - The penetration of dye varies from skin to skin. Some dyes penetrate the skins, color them uniformly throughout. Others show resistance and only dye the surface of the skins. In other cases, the dyes used are solvent soluble, resulting in excessive dye loss during the accepted cleaning process. It is extremely difficult to restore skins dyed with solvent soluble dyes to their original color.
2. OXIDATION AND SUNFADING - Some colors tend to fade and oxidize during normal wear or storage. It is generally impossible to restore blues, greens, aquas, and salmon pinks to their original brightness. However, depending on the degree of fading, the color loss can be masked to some degree by retinting. The original color, however, may not be restored completely.
3. SMOOTH LEATHERS: "FINISHED AND UNFINISHED OR NAKED SKINS" - Finished skins have a sprayed on leather finish, which is sometimes lost during the accepted cleaning process. In those cases, the garments must be refinished to cover fading, stains, etc. Because of the number of colors available and the variations between the, there could be a slight difference from the original color. Unfinished or naked skins are those in which the dyes penetrate the skins, there are no surface finishes applied. Generally, these skins must be redyed after the accepted cleaning process to restore faded colors, cover stains, etc. In these cases, a surface dye is generally applied which may change the feel and appearance of the leather as well as add stiffness to skins.
4. ANTIQUED LEATHERS - An antique finish will not be exactly the same after cleaning. A new finish must be applied after processing which will not duplicate the original shading and patterns exactly. The color and feel of the leather may change slightly.
SPOTS AND STAINS
Any protein stain, such as blood, egg, or milk, has a affinity to leathers. These types of stains are usually difficult to remove by the normal spotting and cleaning procedure. There is always the possibility of color removal or skin injury.
DYE TRANSFER
Most manufacturers generally use color fast dyes when matching suede or leather trim to cloth garments. However, when dark suede or leather is used with light cloth, or highly contrasting shades of suede and leather are adjacent to each other in one garment, there is always the possibility of dye transfer or color bleeding from the dark color to the light.
SKINS DEFECTS
Many skins contain defects caused by lice, grub infestations, scars caused by wounds, etc. The manufacturer is able to mask many of these defects by treating the skins with oils, dyes or pigments. The masking dyes are not color fast and , therefore, fade during processing. When this happens, the skin defects become very noticeable. They appear as a light area on suede and a dark area on grain leather.
BELLY WRINKLES AND THIN SKINS
Belly wrinkles and thin skins are inherent damage. Wrinkles that stop at the seams specific panels are called "belly wrinkles". Thin skins (split or shaved skins) usually have an unevenness in nap. When the skins are cleaned the surface tissues are exposed and the belly wrinkles and thin weak areas become evident. Holes can develop easily in these areas during normal wear and cleaning.
SHRINKAGE
Suedes and leathers have a natural tendency to draw up slightly and contract as the skins dry out and natural oils are lost. In most cases, proper cleaning restores most oils and extends the life of the garment. Slight shrinkage is eased by body heat during wearing and the garment will take on body conformity. In other cases, depending on the degree of shrinkage, the garment can be satisfactorily stretched by a special processing technique.
PIGSKIN
Pigskin does not respond to cleaning and spotting as well as other leathers. It has very little nap and varies from skin to skin in color and texture. Because of the fiber structure of the skin, spots and stains soak deeply in to the skin and are very difficult to remove. The types of cement used in seams and hems of some pigskins bleed through to the surface and leave dark marks and stains which are difficult to remove.
SPLIT COWHIDE (BUSH COATS)
Split cowhide has a very rough texture and a heavy fullness of hand when compared with other leathers. It loses it s color and oils more readily during cleaning than other leathers causing a slightly harsher feel. Because of the rough texture these skins are very difficult to retint.
FOREIGN TANNED GARMENTS
Certain garments tanned in foreign countries have been tanned and dyed by processes which are not always compatible with our cleaning and refinish procedures and/or chemicals. Most foreign skins are top dyed for a brighter appearance. These vivid colors tend to fade and bleed easily during normal processing. These garments tend to react more adversely to cleaning and refinishing than domestically manufactured garments.
GLOVES
The linings in most leather and suede gloves are glued to the inside of the fingers. In most cases, the cleaning solvent will dissolve the glue causing the linings to come loose.
PLASTICS AND VINYLS
Plastics and vinyls are manufactured with many different formulas by hundreds of different manufacturers. Most of these materials will dryclean satisfactorily under controlled conditions. However, even when handled carefully, the material may shrink, stiffen and peel when exposed to certain chemicals used in drycleaning.
HELPFUL HINTS
AT THE TIME OF PURCHASE
Read care labels and hang tags carefully...save them
Question salespeople before making your purchase.
Be sure of decoration...keep it simple...due to the mechanical action, fancy decorations may not stand up during the normal cleaning procedure.
Buy from reputable stores.
AT THE TIME OF WEARING
Wear a scarf around your neck to prevent the garment from becoming soiled by skin oils.
Avoid cleaning fluids, shoe creams and saddle soaps.
Do not allow a leather garment to become oversoiled. (Most people have a tendency to wear split-cowhide garments far too long which creates heavy ingrained soil.) Remember...age sets spots and stains. Garments should be cleaned by a professional suede and leather cleaners.
Avoid storing in areas of extreme temperature, wetness or dryness. Do not store in plastic bags; leathers must have air circulation to keep them from drying out. Do not store soiled garments. Store in a cool, ventilated closet on the proper hanger or professionally store.
Wet garments should be allowed to dry out naturally. DO NOT PUT THE GARMENT IN HEAT. After drying, a high density type sponge will raise the nap again. If the wet garment is dirty, it may need professional cleaning.
Grained leathers may be cleaned by wiping with mild soap and lukewarm water and then drying and buffing with a soft cloth.
Suedes can be brushed cleaned with a sponge, rubber brush or special suede brush. Heavily soiled suedes should be professionally cleaned.
AT THE TIME OF CLEANING
Genuine suede and leather requires special processing to preserve finish, feel and color. Therefore, you should take your garment to a professional suede and leather cleaner equipped for this type of cleaning.
Care labels and hang tags should accompany your suede or leather garment when taken to be cleaned.
Unless all pieces of a multi-piece outfit are processed at the same time, there cannot be a guarantee that they will match after cleaning.
Advise your cleaner of stains or spots, whether visible or not. They will then know how best to handle your garment.
Remove articles from pockets.
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